Men’s accessories: pocket square

A great many people can afford dressing well, yet not everyone knows how to do that exactly. Most of us probably think, it is impossible to appear elegant and make an impression of someone with good taste in fashion without a huge closet full of expensive and designer brand clothes. However, contrary to popular belief, elegance is not necessarily a luxury privilege, nor it is a matter of money but rather a lifestyle. Classy appearance does not always imply a fair-sized closet or high-priced garments and vice versa. If worn correctly and creatively, just a small, fashionable men’s accessory can already become powerful and expressive in the hands of its holder. With the help of a scarf, tie, belt or a pocket square for instance, that are suitably combined with your clothes, you will be able to create unique and stylish outfits.

This time we would like to focus on an attractive, dressy men’s accessory, namely on the pocket square, also known as “Pasha”. Are there any golden rules how to find a pocket square for a suit? Should it match with the colour of your shirt, tie or rather of your jacket? That is exactly the point: the pocket square must go well with your whole outfit. Before choosing a pasha to wear, take a careful look at the pattern of your jacket, shirt and tie, and try to imagine which colour could bring the harmony to perfection.

Our advice is to wear pocket squares as plain and casual as possible. Sticking out of your pocket approximately 2-3 cm, it will be an aesthetic, modest accessory which isn’t ostentatious but still it conveys the impression of a wisely composed outfit. From our point of view, clothing looks sophisticated, if it is elegant and discrete at the same time; that’s why minimalistic, moderate suits are the best choice after all.

Alan Flusser writes in his book “Dressing the Man”: "Even if we wanted to, we wouldn’t find any picture of the Prince of Windsor, Fred Astaire or any other well-dressed gentleman in the 1930s, in which there wasn’t a pocket square worn. John F. Kennedy for example – the last real stylish American president – would never leave the White House without a handkerchief in the breast pocket of his suit."

Choosing the right pocket square is not rocket science as the Americans say, still there are some important things to know before buying one.

Silk and linen, less often cotton or the combinations of these are the most common fabrics of handkerchiefs. In autumn and winter a pocket square made of wool can also look good especially with a tweed jacket. You don’t have to worry about harmonizing the fabrics of your handkerchief and your tie: matching either the same or different textiles (such as a silk tie and a linen pocket square for instance) is an equally good option. There is only one important rule to follow: never wear synthetic handkerchiefs. 

A white linen handkerchief is generally the most universal alternative, since it is easy to combine with other pieces of clothing. Moreover, you can also wear it on any kind of occasion, whether it is a walk in the park or a wedding ceremony.


When it comes to business style, we cannot really speak of an “official” pocket square, only of more or less adequate colours and patterns. For an office look, unicoloured handkerchiefs with a simple decoration could be the best choice, but pocket squares with paisley, flower or pea pattern are also suitable. Patterned handkerchiefs are much easier to pair with unicolor jackets.


With a more casual style brighter, unconventional colours match the most.


As regards the colour combinations, you will have to take the tones of your tie, shirt and of your jacket into consideration. It looks great, if the pocket square’s colour or a part of its pattern resembles and harmonizes with the shirt’s and/or tie’s colours.


On the other hand, you can also wear your handkerchief as a completely independent clothing item, the only thing you should avoid is creating disharmony in your outfit.


Remember, the pocket square must have an essential, emphatic role in your wear. Don’t be afraid to choose markable colours and patterns – the handkerchief shouldn’t blend into its environment or be shadowed by the colours of other clothes.

Besides the breast pocket of a jacket, handkerchiefs also look great in the pocket of a waistcoat or normal coat.


Wearing a pocket square always with a tie is not carved in stone either. Handkerchiefs stand on their ground also without a tie; this way you can create a mixture of elegant and casual styles.


So have the courage to experiment and to form your style by learning the skills and tricks of dressing creatively! 

Empire of O'Z